Looks like things are starting to pop here in the Midwest! I’m guessing I’ll be able to post at least once a week in the Phenology section. Last year, I attached quotes related about TIME with these posts. I’m not sure what I’ll do yet, However I’ll entertain any ideas =-)
This pachy is showing some stress under the newly planted trees and in full sun.
This side was worst because it’s sunnier, which equals more stress!
Pachysandrea terminalis is a beautiful, lush, evergreen ground cover for a semi-shady spot. One of the most common problems with pachysandra is a fungal infection called, Volutella Blight. Generally, pachysandra has very few issues when well cared for. However, when other situations stress the plant out, opportunistic pests can take over.
Volutella Blight has a fungal ring associated with the damaged lesions. Winter damage has an even-toned brown to the damage.
Blight on the left / Winter damage on the right
How to not stress out your pachysandra:
Plant it in a partial shade or shade area. Not in the sun.
Do not overwater, water in the morning and use drip irrigation, not overhead.
Be sure to do a fall cleanup to remove any fallen leaves or plant debris from the bed to improve air circulation and reduce moisture levels. Blow lightly with blower.
It is also helpful to periodically thin the planting to prevent dense growth and increase air circulation.
Use leaf mulch, not woody chips.
Fungicides such as mancozeb and maneb can be used to protect remaining plants and the new growth of any pachysandra that have been cut back. These treatments can help deter infection but will not cure infected plants. You would need to spray at 7 to 14 day intervals from spring until early summer. Generally this time would coincide with the blooming of serviceberries (Amelancheir) and Redbuds (Cercis canadensis), i.e. now in the Midwest.
When I’m doing any garden designing, I first listen to my clients needs: colors they like/dislike, types of flowers they like, privacy requirements, the list goes on. I then whip out my ‘helper’ sheets to make the process go quicker. These are my perennial helper sheets. They are divided by color, height and bloom time. This is not a complete list of perennials for the area, however, it is a great start! If you need to see what any of these look like, please search my site! I’m fairly sure I’ve got most of these pictured.
I hope it helps you as much as it helps me!! Happy planting =-)
Most of the Midwestern area is comprised of clay soils. Never fear! This is a much better situation to have than sandy soils. Clay soils maintain more minerals and moisture than other soils.
Sometimes clay soils can be bad, such as in conditions where there are more problems than just the soil. If while digging in the soil, it looks blueish-black and smells kinda off, this is because of poor drainage and the smell is from rotting organisms. The area should be assessed for drainage problems before anything else is done.
If the clay is a redish-orange, this is perfect as the soil is holding all the minerals plants crave.
The soil should be mixed with a fair amount of compost to help perennials get a good start. If the soil is very compacted, some sand can be mixed it also. Be sure to surround the perennial bed with leaf compost to aid in nutrients getting to the roots and all the other benefits mulch does for plants.